If you’re looking to buy a new suit, you’ll find yourself facing three main options: off-the-rack suits from high-street retailers, premium designer suits and bespoke suits. Here are the 4 key considerations that should help you come to a decision:
Price
Your budget will be one of the major factors behind your choice. Are you looking for something super affordable that you will only wear once or twice a year or is this your everyday business suit that you’re willing to invest in?
Off-the-rack suits are, of course, the most accessible entry points. Most high-street brands offer mass-produced suits that are priced very reasonably. However, besides quality, there may be a lack of variety in colours and fits (off-the-rack suits tend to stock what is most in-demand that season).
Designer suits are the middle ground in terms of pricing – it’s certainly an investment, but the jump in quality is also significant, together with a wider range of options for different preferences.
It’s no surprise that bespoke tailoring is by far the most expensive. You’re not only paying for the quality, but also for the labour behind it.
Durability
How long a suit lasts depends largely on the quality of its construction. Off-the-rack suits are often fused, meaning the interlining is glued rather than stitched to the outer fabric. This is fine initially but, over time, the glue can bubble or delaminate. Most high-street suits have a working life of two to three years with regular wear.
At the higher price point, we have designer suits men can really rely on for long-term durability. Made using quality materials and expert craftmanship, which also undergoes rigorous quality testing, they can last a decade or more with proper care.
Tailor-made suits may last a similar or even longer amount of time than designer suits. That being said, durability at the bespoke level is only as good as the craftsmanship and cloth behind it.
Fabrics
Fabric is where the difference between price tiers becomes most apparent. Off-the-rack suits commonly use polyester blends or low-grade wool, which tend to look flat, pill quickly and also don’t breathe very well (particularly on a hot summer day).
Designer suits, on the other hand, source quality, natural fabrics from specialist mills, such as wool, cotton, linen or silk. These tend to hold their shape better across a full-day’s wear and recover well after being packed or folded, as well as provide more breathability.
With bespoke, you have complete freedom of choice. Your tailor will typically have a wide range of cloth samples and can source almost anything you want. The selection is unmatched, though it also requires you to know exactly what you’re looking for.
Fit
Fit is, in many respects, the most important factor of all. A suit that sits awkwardly and bunches in all the wrong places or is not long enough on your arms or legs will simply not look right.
Off-the-rack suits are cut to standard proportions, which suits some people perfectly, but others – not so much. If you’re willing to compromise, you may take your shop-bought suit for some basic alterations, where possible (e.g. taking in the waist or shortening the trouser length).
Designer suits tend to offer a much broader range of cuts, from slim to contemporary and classic silhouettes. It gives you a greater chance to find something that works for your build.
Bespoke suits are, by definition, made to fit you perfectly. If you want a truly special suit that looks impeccable on you, tailor-made is hard to beat. The downside, beyond the price, is the time it takes to make (several weeks or even months) and the long-term commitment to that fit (especially if your weight fluctuates regularly).
The suit that suits you
There’s no right or wrong decision here, but rather a selection of considerations. Your choice can only be based on your own personal needs and preferences.
