Mexico beckons with a sense of adventure, particularly along its western coast. Its history conjures images of golden sun gods and Aztec empires, while its landscape still possesses a wildness that feels slightly untamed, as though there are corners waiting to be discovered.
That feeling begins to take hold almost immediately on the journey from the airport toward Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit. The landscape opens slowly. The farther in you travel, the deeper the greens become until eventually you arrive at the edge of Banderas Bay, framed by the hazy Sierra Madre mountains.
Our ornithologist and guide, Alfonso, would later explain how those mountains have helped shape Puerto Vallarta. They separate the region geographically from much of Mexico and have influenced its character as well. There is a slower rhythm here, one that reveals itself almost as soon as you arrive.
At Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit, that rhythm begins with check-in. Rather than standing at a front desk after a day of travel, guests are invited to sit while the resort team comes to them. A welcome drink arrives, followed by a shoulder massage, a small ritual that signals it is time to say goodbye to pace of wherever you came from.
The serenity of the bay offers the same invitation. On our first afternoon, my daughter and I made our way toward the ocean for a post travel ceviche and guacamole. Along the coastline, a seemingly endless procession of colorful butterflies drifted southward. Brown pelicans flew in pairs just above the breaking waves, following the surf line as they searched for their own afternoon meal.
It was a fitting beginning to a trip inspired, in large part, by birds.
My daughter has recently become fascinated by them, studying their journeys and beginning a life list of the species she’s seen. I wanted to take her somewhere where the two of us could spend uninterrupted time together and where her new interest could become an adventure of its own. Puerto Vallarta, long celebrated among birders for the extraordinary variety of species found throughout the region, seemed like the perfect place.
It also gave us something that has become increasingly rare, time alone together, away from the routines of home and the joyful chaos of a younger brother.
A Resort That Arrived Before the Rush
Long before Riviera Nayarit became a destination dotted with major international luxury brands, Grand Velas was already here.
Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit opened in 2002, conceived around an idea that at the time was still relatively unusual in Mexico: that an all-inclusive resort could deliver the same level of service, cuisine and design expected from the world’s leading luxury hotels. Velas Resorts describes the property as the first luxury all-inclusive resort in Mexico, and it went on to earn AAA’s Five Diamond distinction. Forbes later credited Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit with helping raise the standard for what an all-inclusive experience could be.
In many ways, Grand Velas recognized the magic of this coastline before the broader luxury hotel world caught up. In the years since, Riviera Nayarit has attracted an increasing number of global hospitality names, drawn by the same combination of Banderas Bay, the Sierra Madre mountains and a landscape that still feels wonderfully connected to nature.
The resort remains Mexican-owned and operated, and that sense of place is woven into its approach to hospitality. The philosophy centers on making the experience feel seamless. Its all-inclusive model encompasses accommodations, dining, beverages and 24-hour in-suite service, creating the ease of having most of the details handled before you ever need to think about them.
The property itself is composed entirely of suites, with 267 accommodations overlooking the surrounding landscape, many oriented toward the Pacific and Banderas Bay. They are generous in scale, giving families enough space to settle in rather than simply sleep between activities. The effect is residential and relaxed, particularly important on a trip where days have a tendency to stretch from early-morning wildlife excursions to long afternoons by the pool and dinners that no one is in a hurry to finish.
For Grand Velas, the all-inclusive concept is less about abundance for abundance’s sake and more about removing friction from a vacation.
Following the Turtles
Our mornings quickly developed their own rhythm. We would wake with the sunrise and walk toward the beach to see how many sea turtles had come ashore during the night. Adult females return to the coastline to lay their eggs, often working through the darkness before beginning the slow journey back toward the Pacific.
Each morning brought new tracks across the sand. On our final morning, the Grand Velas resort counted 52 turtles still laying eggs or making their way back to the water.
The staff at Grand Velas watched them with the same sense of wonder as the guests. They gently ensured that passersby maintained enough distance to allow each turtle to complete her journey without interruption. The attentiveness to the wildlife felt deeply ingrained in the property.
And of course my daughter was awash in questions. Why did they choose this beach? How did they know where to return? Where would they go once they reached the ocean? What would happen to all of those eggs hidden beneath the sand? Its a wonder in itself to watch your children understand the scale of the natural world.
From the beach we would make our way to breakfast at Azul, overlooking the water as the sun climbed higher in the sky. Pelicans continued their morning patrol over the waves while the mountains remained softly visible in the distance. Then came the pool.
Grand Velas has perfected the art of the leisurely pool day. Attendants dressed in crisp white uniforms and wide-brimmed hats seem to glide between chairs, bringing aguafrescas, frozen cocktails and a selection of ceviches, among other wonderful selections. You can have lunch delivered to your lounge chair or swim across to the bar and order without leaving the water. The resort is all inclusive so it leaves out the extra task of signing checks.
For my daughter’s birthday, a chocolate cake arrived poolside with joyful fanfare. Around us were families celebrating milestones of their own, couples relaxing near the adults-only section along the beachfront, and multiple generations moving easily between the pool, beach and restaurants.
It made the resort feel especially well suited to multigenerational travel. Grandparents can retreat to the spa or enjoy a quiet lunch while children head to the kids club. Parents can disappear for dinner or a cocktail knowing their children are happily occupied. Families come together again when they want to. Everyone has room to experience the trip in their own way.
A Journey Amid The Untamed Marietas
On our second morning our travels to the Marietas Islands began early.
Our guide for the day, Alfonso Langle, Founder of PVBirding, picked us up at 7:30 a.m. for the drive to Punta Mita, where a small boat would take us out to the protected islands. Leaving from Punta Mita puts you close to the archipelago, and within approximately 25 minutes we were approaching its dramatic volcanic cliffs.
The early start had another purpose. The birds are particularly active in the morning and we arrived ahead of many other visitors. Soon the mainland disappeared. A natural fog settled across Banderas Bay until there was no visible land in any direction. At moments, ours was the only boat in sight.
Suddenly, the luxurious world we had left behind that morning felt very far away. We could have been on our own discovery mission, heading toward a corner of the world that remained entirely wild. Then came the first flash of blue.
We were still perhaps 50 meters from the island when a male blue-footed booby flew overhead. Alfonso immediately pointed out the feet, an almost electric blue visible beneath him in flight.
As we moved closer, more appeared. They stood along the edges of the volcanic cliffs, their pale eyes and white heads sharp against the dark brown rock. The landscape in places looked almost lunar. One section is appropriately referred to as “the Moon,” its rocky surface seemingly belonging to another planet.
And against all of that gray were those remarkable blue feet.
Alfonso explained that the color plays a role in courtship. The intensity of the blue offers females information about the health and condition of a potential mate, turning one of the bird’s most charming characteristics into part of a surprisingly sophisticated mating display.
The ocean swelled as we approached the cliffs. Each rise of the boat carried us closer until, at moments, we were perhaps ten feet away.
There were groups perched along the rocks, others moving through the air above us, and two young blue-footed boobies waiting for their mothers to return with food. The Marietas are an important habitat for an extraordinary variety of seabirds, including the magnificent frigatebird and brown booby. Mexico’s national parks authority lists the blue-footed booby and magnificent frigatebird among the representative species of the protected area.
Frigatebirds provided another lesson. Despite spending their lives around the ocean, Alfonso explained that their feathers are poorly suited to prolonged contact with the water. Their hunting strategy frequently involves pursuing other seabirds and attempting to steal their catch. Watching the different species interact gave the islands the feeling of a living ecosystem rather than simply a spectacular landscape.
The location helps explain some of that abundance. The Marietas sit where several different ocean water masses meet, bringing together species associated with the central and southern Mexican Pacific, the Gulf of California and the Pacific coast of Baja California. UNESCO describes the islands as particularly rich in bird and fish life.
For my daughter, none of the scientific explanation diminished the simple thrill of seeing the birds.
They were now on her life list.
Beneath the Surface
The adventure continued underwater. This would be Ayla’s first time snorkeling and, standing at the edge of the boat, she hesitated. It was one of those parenting moments when you know pushing too hard will have the opposite effect. Because we were on a private excursion, there was no pressure to hurry. We had time to talk through what would happen, get comfortable with the equipment and allow her to make the decision when she was ready.
Eventually she slipped into the water and within seconds, the hesitation was gone. The visibility that morning was extraordinary. Beneath the clear blue surface, the volcanic formations continued toward the sea floor and schools of fish moved around the rocks. We spotted angelfish, Moorish idols, butterflyfish, parrotfish, puffer fish and schools of Blue Tang.
It became one of my favorite moments of the trip. She had been afraid, worked through it and discovered an entirely new world on the other side.
Searching for the Cuckoo
Alfonso had one more adventure planned.
Our second birding excursion took place on land, where he wanted to return to an area in which he had recently spotted a mangrove cuckoo, a species that can be particularly difficult to find.
We pulled off the road and walked into an area dense with trees and butterflies. Alfonso explained that mangrove cuckoos eat caterpillars, so an abundance of butterflies can offer a clue that you may be searching in the right place. For about ten minutes we walked slowly, spotting other birds along the way, including a beautiful streak-backed oriole. Then Alfonso stopped. He had heard it.
A distinct call came from somewhere within the trees. We waited. A few minutes later, a mangrove cuckoo appeared.
Alfonso seemed almost as excited as we were. That was part of what made spending time with him so enjoyable. His knowledge was academic, but his enthusiasm remained wonderfully childlike. Every rare bird still seemed capable of surprising him.
He told us that another client had been hoping for some time to see a mangrove cuckoo. We had gotten very lucky. For an eight-year-old building her first serious bird list, it felt a little like winning the lottery.
Returning to Grand Velas
After a morning spent circling volcanic islands, snorkeling and watching blue-footed boobies from a small boat, our return to Grand Velas felt particularly indulgent.
We went directly to the pool. Fresh fish, French fries and frozen strawberry smoothies appeared beside our chairs while butterflies continued their effortless journey along the coastline.
Then we floated. The morning’s adventure settled comfortably into memory as the mountains returned to their familiar place on the horizon. That ease is one of the resort’s great strengths. Grand Velas gives families access to a remarkable natural environment while creating a home base where virtually everything has already been anticipated.
The same philosophy carries through the dining experience.
We had dinners at Frida and Lucca and chose one evening to remain in our room and order room service. Every meal received the same attention to detail. There were plenty of comfortable options for an eight-year-old along with opportunities to try something new, while thoughtful wine pairings elevated the experience for the adult at the table.
Most importantly, we never felt rushed and dinner became another place for conversation.
Time to Disappear For a Water Ritual
One afternoon, Ayla spent a few hours at the resort’s newly renovated kids club while I went to the spa. The kids club runs from morning well into the evening, with a full schedule of activities designed for children.
The SE Spa at Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit is a luxury 16,000 square foot wellness sanctuary featuring 20 treatment rooms and a signature guided hydrotherapy ritual. My experience began with their signature water journey and an invitation to forget everything and everyone. As the ritual progressed thoughts began to float farther away.
Steam came first, followed by a ritual incorporating ice and aloe. From there came the dry sauna, then an immersive shower combining sound, scents and color. We moved through pools of different temperatures, from hot to cold to something closer to bath water, before arriving at a final moment of silence, all led by an attendee whose only goal was to ensure you were relaxed.
And then it was time for my massage and by that point, relaxation felt less like an activity and more like a physical state.
After the spa, families can come together again for dinner, while adults looking for a little more time on their own can linger over a drink or listen to live jazz at the resort’s 18-and-over lounge. By the time it was time to pick up my daughter she was completely immersed in a game with one of the staff members, a large, contented smile across her face.
The property allows both of these worlds to coexist easily.
The Colors We Take Home
On our final morning, we walked down to see the turtles one last time just as the mother turtles were making their slow journey toward the ocean after a night spent ensuring another generation might someday return to the same stretch of sand.
We went to Azul for breakfast and FaceTimed my husband and son back home. We talked about the birds, the snorkeling, the turtles and everything we had seen. The Sierra Madre mountains in the horizon. The wide-brimmed hats and laughter of the pool attendants. The golden light arriving over Banderas Bay at breakfast and the pink hued sunsets every evening. The Matcha colored butterflies drifting along the coastline and of course the almost improbable blue feet.
Then my daughter delivered her review of Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit with the kind of clarity only an eight-year-old can manage.
“I don’t want to leave. Can we live here?”
Perhaps that is the surest sign of a great adventure. You begin planning it around where you will go and what you will see, and somewhere along the way you stop thinking about leaving.
For me, the greatest luxury of Grand Velas was the freedom to be completely present with my daughter. The details were handled quietly in the background, the meals appeared, the excursions unfolded, the staff looked after us and time seemed to expand. We were given the space for the two of us to explore, to ask questions, to float in the pool, to conquer a first snorkeling adventure and to watch a blue-footed booby fly across the Pacific together.
Those are the moments we carried home. And, perhaps, a few new colors for Ayla’s life list.
And if you would like to go on your own journey to see the colors of Puerto Vallarta book a trip with the Grand Velas here – https://vallarta.grandvelas.com/
